Model: | Orator Extra triple calendar chronograph Valjoux72c |
Reference: | 2300 |
Gender: | Uni-sex |
Year: | 1950s |
Material: | 18k yellow gold |
Dial Color: | Creme white, silver |
Dimensions: | 38 mm |
Watch Movement: | Manual Wind Movement (Valjoux 72c) |
Bracelet/Strap: | vintage leather strap |
Box/Paper: | Handmade Leather Travel Pouch IF ordered at WRIST ICONS |
Condition: | Excellent |
This is a rare opportunity to get yourself a rally nice and super cool Valjoux 72c powered 18k gold Orator Extra Triple calendar chronograph in excellent condition. At that time this was sold this was a very big sized watch. The beautiful Valjoux 72c caliber is houses in a gorgeous oversized 18k golden 38mm case
The watch company that started Orator was Orator, Schild & Cie Sa, Manufacture d'Horlogerie, La Chaux de Fonds
It was founded in 1888 by Arthur Graizely and his brother as Graizely Frères for manufacturing of 8-days watches after a patent bought from Irenée Aubry. These watches are known until today as Hebdomas or (less) Octodi. It is reported that the name Hebdomas was used because the watch was originally supposed to run for 15 days.
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The Valjoux caliber 72 is arguably one of the best or the best chronograph movement of time. It is very nice column wheel movement, based on the Valjoux caliber 22 from 1914. This caliber introduced in 1938 is 13 ligne and has three counters. A 12 hour, a running second and a 30 minute counter. This is the traditional layout for a chronograph as is most popular.
The size of the caliber gave it a great opportunity to add extra functions such as the calendar complication with the caliber 72c as introduced in 1946 and produced until 1974. This caliber has been used by many brands such as Zodiac, Orator, Heuer but also Rolex with the very much sought after model as worn by Olympic skier Jean Claude Killy.
With about 750,000 movements produced, and at least 17, or possibly 19 manufacturers and watch brands that have used a Valjoux 72 and its derivatives in their chronographs, from Eterna to Longines to Wittnauer to Wakmann; the caliber 72 is not rare. The Valjoux caliber 72 is of course very much regarded as it has been used in the Rolex Daytona, Heuer Autavia Andretti and earliest Breitling Navitimers. And the caliber 72c has its fanbase since it adds the calendar complication to the chronograph as well as the caliber 88 which adds a moonphase.
The pinnacle has always been the triple calendar chronograph from Rolex, but due to this popularity the 72c powered watches have their cult following too.
The Valjoux 72C (calendar) includes the Day, Date, and Month. The gorgeous triple calendar movement with the date indicated from a thin, elegant half-moon tipped hand driven from the centre pinion turns up in this beautiful Orator Extra. When servicing a Valjoux 72, it is important to understand that there were design changes to these movements, not all of which were formally published. This Orator Extra Triple calendar chronograph Valjoux 72C is a very early example made in the 1950's. These feature two pushers on the left side of the watch, one at approximately 10 o'clock and the other at 8 o'clock. The pusher at 8 is for advancing the date. The pusher at 10 advances the month and may-- or may not -- advance the day. Some 72C's feature the ability to 1/2-way push the 10 pusher to advance the day. And others, like this early version, do not have that function. Instead, the user must move the hands forward to set the day and then set the rest of the watch-- even some other (not Valjoux 72) modern movements today require this manual method of advancing the day, so it isn't that unusual. However, if you are unaware of the 72C design differences, you may assume your watch has a problem that it doesn't.
This stunning example of the 18k gold Orator Extra Triple calendar chronograph is in really good vintage condition. It has all the good parts what makes this a great looking vintage piece
Dial: Original dial with stunning " patina. Similarly to the case, the dial is in excellent condition, the hour markers are shining an beautifully polished without any oxidation
Hands: Original golden leaf hands. The hands match the hour markers perfectly.
Case: the case has never been polished. Reference & serial numbers are fully legible.
Crown: Original crown.
Bracelet/strap: comes on a brown original leather strap in almost new condition, only worn a couple of times.
Movement: serviced by our watchmaker.. Running perfectly with a one year service warranty. The watch carries the manual winding caliber 72c movement. The movement is clean, and during the time of testing the watch was fully functional.
Accessories: None.
Notes: Absolutely stunning example of a super desirable 18k gold Orator Extra Triple calendar chronograph with an attractive dial, original hands and beautiful leather strap. Very hard to find these in this condition.
Overall, the 18k gold Orator Extra Triple calendar chronograph is noteworthy, both for its design and execution. This watch is remarkably well preserved.
As with all of our pre-owned watches this watch comes with a full 12 month warranty with ourselves that will be invoked from the day of purchase.
Viewings can be arranged at our office by appointment.
This particular watch has just undergone a full service. This work was carried out by our watchmaker using original parts.
As with all of our pre-owned watches this watch comes with a full 12 month warranty with ourselves that will be invoked from the day of purchase.
If you put it on your wrist, you feel you have locked and Wrist Icon!