Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 69173 Ladies full-set18k/SS two-tone 1990 with a jubilee bracelet

Do you want a truly classy Iconic Datejust? Search no further. This a really nice two-tone Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust reference 69173 from 1987 in 18kt yellow gold and stainless steel with an oyster bracelet. This comes as a full set with its original invoice!!!!

Reference 69713

The Rolex Lady-Datejust ref. 69173 was introduced in 1983 as the third generation of the watch, replacing the previous four-digit ref. 69XX series that had been in production for 13 years. The main reason for the change was the inclusion of a new movement, as was typical in the Datejust's history. However, there were minimal outward differences between the two series.

The Rolex Lady-Datejust ref. 69173 has always been a subject of debate due to its two-tone design, but for those who appreciate it, it is a true gem. This watch is highly regarded for its classic 26mm stainless steel oyster case, which is beautifully complemented by its yellow gold bezel and crown. Despite its controversial appearance, the ref. 69173 has become a popular choice for women who want to add a Rolex to their jewelry collection.

First introduced in the early 1980s, the ref. 69173 is part of the next generation of Lady-Datejust watches. It continues the legacy of the women's focused Datejust timepieces that have been popular for over twenty-five years. It is an excellent entry-level Rolex that is versatile, available in various dial styles and colorways, and suitable for any occasion.

The quintessential Lady-Datejust, the ref. 69173 features a comfortable 26mm two-tone oyster case and an elegant yellow gold fluted bezel that adds a touch of sophistication to the watch. The diverse range of dial styles, including diamond indices and exotic colors, makes this timepiece a favorite among many women. It is a reliable and fashionable watch that can be dressed up or down, highlighting its versatility and becoming one of the best all-around wearers in the market.

Fun Fact

Funny fact, this is exactly the same reference as worn by Christian Bale, in the movie American Psycho. Rolex was mentioned 26 times in the book although they don’t mention a specific model. For the movie Rolex did not wanted to be associated with a serial killer called Patrick Bateman, so one of the fanous lines in the film had to be changed to, “Don’t touch the watch”.

History of the Datejust

The Datejust has set the bar for luxury watches since 1945, when this Rolex© marvel became the archetype for the modern watch. Inspired for and by the ocean, the Datejust’s revolution was a fully waterproof, automatic chronometer framing a date in the window--the first of its kind the world ever knew. This Datejust’s elegant design features a dazzling dial, and the scratch-resistant crystal’s cyclops eye makes it one of the world’s most recognizable watches. The Oyster architecture constitutes a 26mm case and bracelet while an seals the timepiece’s dignified look.

The Datejust adds performance to style, as it can display the date instantaneously with rapid setting, and has earned the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute’s official certification for high-precision. The Datejust’s screw-down winding crown utilizes Rolex’s Twinlock double waterproofness system, providing waterproof protection up to 100 meters. Its innovative hairspring offers maximum resistance against shocks, temperature variations, and magnetic fields. This Rolex© is entrenched as an iconic classic, featured on the wrists of many world leaders in every industry. Purchasing the Datejust will give you that same classic look, with smooth feel and function to boot.

Movement of the 69713:caliber 2000 series

This Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 69713 has a mechanical automatic self-winding Rolex caliber 2135 movement. In 1983 caliber 2135 ended the 13-year run of the 2035, which was   the first high-beat caliber Rolex had ever made. By increasing the balance speed from 19,800bph to 28,800bph, the new movement was able to offer an even greater level of accuracy and robustness than the already formidable abilities of its predecessor. It was this new speed on the 2035, causing the seconds hand to ‘tick’ eight times per second, that introduced the smooth sweep that is so characteristic of Rolex watches.

Along with upping the movement’s frequency, which has since been adopted by every subsequent model Rolex has produced, the Cal. 2135 also led the field in another aspect; it was the first automatic caliber to feature a quickset function.

Known alternatively as the ‘rapid calendar advance’, the quickset function on the 2135 allowed the wearer to change the date on their watch simply by pulling out the winding crown to the second position and turning counter clockwise, needing one and a half rotations to advance each digit. It was the development that eliminated the tedious process of having to wind the hour hand through a 24-hour cycle and was a significant improvement on the previous movements.

The Lady-Datejust ref. 69173, along with its various versions, was powered by the Cal. 2135 movement, which remained unchanged throughout its production until 1999. This movement was part of the Cal. 2000 series, which was Rolex's second fully in-house movement series and was also used in the previous four-digit ref. 69XX series.

Despite being smaller in size, the movements that power Rolex's women's watches, such as the Cal. 2135, are just as impressive as those in the men's collection. They must perform the same functions and maintain the same level of accuracy in a more concentrated space, making tolerances even finer and less forgiving.

The Cal. 2135 had many of the same components as its predecessor, the Cal. 2035, such as the Glucydur balance wheel, Nivarox hairspring with Breguet overcoil, and Kif shock absorption system. However, it introduced the Quickset function, allowing the wearer to easily adjust the date by pulling out the crown to the second position and turning it to move the date forward.

The Cal. 2135 and its no-date counterpart, the Cal. 2130, hold the record for the highest first-time pass rate for accuracy of any movement certified by the COSC, the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute.

Condition

This ladies size Rolex Datejust (69173) featuring champagne golden dial with an acrylic plexi glass and an external cyclops date aperture at 3 O'clock. This example is in excellent pre-owned condition and has a 904L stainless steel 26mm size case with a chronometer rated automatic movement.  The watch case is surrounded by a yellow golden fluted bezel. It has an integral two-tone 18k yellow gold and stainless steel oyster bracelet with a double deployment clasp. This particular watch comes complete with a non-matching original Rolex box.

The watch has a 26mm diameter solid three-body case, curved lugs, and a fluted bezel, are polished/brushed. The dial is champagne gold coloured with baton golden hour markers. It includes polished golden baton hands with luminous inserts, and a central sweep seconds hand. There is an instantaneous rapid setting date aperture window underneath a Cyclops magnifying lens at 3 o'clock. It has a Certified Official Superlative Chronometer (COSC) rating, and it's water resistant to 100 meters/330 feet. The 11.2mm thick case, dial, and movement are all signed.

Very good could accurately describe the condition of this reference 69713. The case is thick, with sharp lugs on which you can still see the original brushing. The tritium dots on the T-Swiss-Made-T dial are all present, and show the same light patina as the handset; however, as can be expected after more than 31 years, the tritium is no longer luminescent. The white date disc with open 6s and 9s is consistent with the period, and the quick-set date will prove handy. Finally, the Rolex oyster bracelet is really tight after a full bracelet restoration with a little bit of stretch, and will make sure that this Datejust fits well on your wrist.

This particular watch has just undergone a full service. This work was carried out by our Rolex authorized watchmaker using Rolex parts.

As with all of our pre-owned watches this watch comes with a full 12 month warranty with ourselves that will be invoked from the day of purchase.