Future Iconic watches

There are a lot wristwatches available in the market. But what is it that makes a watch truly iconic? What are the specifications or defining requirements of a watch that make a specific watch to become an horological icon? What sets these piece apart from the rest?

We all know the icons of watch making like:

  • The first pilot’s watch: Cartier Santos Dumont (1904 – first on sale 1911)
  • The first commercial or stylish wristwatch: Cartier’s Tank (1919)
  • The first waterproof watch: Rolex Oyster (1926)
  • The first sports watch: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso (1931)
  • The watch that went to the moon: Omega Speedmaster Professional (1957)
  • The first luxury steel watch: Audemars Piquet Royal Oak and the others that followed IWC’s Ingenieur (1976) and Patek Philippe's Nautilus (1976)
  • The first perpetual calendar chronograph Ref. 1518 by Patek Philippe (1941)
  • The first commercial diver watch with a depth rating of 100meters Rolex Submariner (1953)
  • Those watches have stood the test time. Not only because of the function, since they serve a real purpose, but also because of their great designs.

Watches from more recent years have had more difficulties to discern themselves by really groundbreaking solutions for timing issues. But from a design perspective there are several watches that became iconic due to their design.

But what are the more contemporary watches that have a big change to be considered in the nearby future as an iconic watch? As a collector it is always a challenge to take a look further and to be ahead of the curve. What are the future classics of tomorrow?

We have picked out 30 pieces that have the potential to become icons. in this article we will focus on watches from the era staring from the 1980 until now. Watch collectors always tend to pick watches which are rare, are in the best condition, have a great design (size) and have a decent provenance. It is important that these watches have a different story to be told.

Now let's have a look at the watches! We will discuss these watches in random order.

1-Tudor Black Bay

Tudor introduced the Heritage Black Bay 79220N with ETA movement and rose logo. Being the initial release always meant something in collectible world. The Classic version was released in October 2015, and the new “2.0” version was announced at Baselworld ’16 – about 5 months later. It’s difficult to say but it is estimated that only 3000 pieces were made

2-IWC doppelchronograph reference 3711

This was a groundbreaking watch with a double chronograph mechanism ( with a double chornograph you can time 2 different kind of events), designed by Richard Habring based on a a Valjoux 7750. They placed a rattrapante module on top of the Valjoux 7750 caliber. The watch was groundbreaking, since they offered a really difficult complication for a quite affordable price. For more information on the IWC Doppelchronograph read this article https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/iwc-doppelchrono-reference-3711-in-depth

3-Audemars Royal Oak perpetual

Audemars Piquet at this moment is re-considering some of its points of sale (less) and has a strong focus on vintage pieces. This strategy will have a positive influence on the collectability of vintage Audemars Piquet since they want to maintain and protect the exclusivity of their new and old products.

The Royal Oak was introduced in 1972 by the legendary Gerald Genta as a first steel luxury sport wath. The first series time only Royal Oaks have become really collectible and valauable. (A-series 40.000+) Later on in 1981 they introduced the first complication on the Royal Oak platform. Audemars Piquet has a big tradition in perpetual calendars with moonpahse. I really love this lay-out of the sub registers. Early A-series Royal Oaks jumbos are rare and have seen a big rise in price >45.000 euros while new they are 14.000 euros. But these later perpetual calendars you can pick up for €25.000, while they cost you new 45.000 euros

4-Audemars Piquet Royal Oak Day Date Moonphase

Featuring a white dial with secondary dials for day and date displays at 9 and 3 o’clock framing a moon-phase display at 6, all powered by an entirely in-housed developed mechanism, the Royal Oak Day Date Moonphase offered an excellent alternative to the perpetual calendar movement. You can get this for only 10.000 euros.


5-Audemars Piquet Royal Oak Offhore the Beast

To mark the 20th anniversary of the Royal Oak, the first Royal Oak Offshore was designed to cater the tastes of sport enthusiasts and young people. In fact, the designer of the Offshore - Emmanuel Gueit - was just 22 year old when he was given the task.
The concept behind this model was the “deconstructed” approach to the timepiece, intended to reveal how it was built and its key elements, like the the massive visible black gasket on the bezel. The case had a size of 42 mm, a normal size today but shock at the time, which brought the watch to be nicknamed "The Beast". The genesis of the Royal Oak Offshore begins in 1989 when a talented, young, second generation designer working for Audemars Piguet named Emmanuel Gueit introduced a sketch of a concept that re-imagined the Royal Oak into a more massive, substantial watch that can handle all of the elements and forces of nature that it would encounter on the wrists of the most active and adventure-seeking collectors. Gueit’s conceptual sketches did not receive much fanfare internally.
In fact, like several other designs that ultimately found success, the early years of development were a lonely journey. Fortunately, the project was supported by the leadership of Audemars Piguet at the time. In addition to the support he provided Gueit, he was also the man that ultimately designated the name of the new creation as the Royal Oak Offshore. When the Offshore was introduced at Basel 1993, a lot of purists were disappointed, including Gérald Genta which "invaded the booth shouting that his Royal Oak had been completely destroyed”, as Gueit recalls. As for the original Royal Oak, also the Offshore turned out to be a great success. You can up a vintage piece up for 15.000 euros while the re-edition will cost you 30.000 euros. Read more about the Audemars Piquet Royal Ok line-up here https://www.timeandwatches.com/p/history-of-audemars-piguet-royal-oak.html and about the Beast here https://www.timeandwatches.com/p/history-of-audemars-piguet-royal-oak.html

6-Cartier Collecton Privee Paris Monopoussoir

Cartier was always a bit regarded by watch snobs as a fashion watch. The brand has developed some of the most beautiful designs in the history of watchmaking, think about the Santos and the Tank. But in 1998 Cartier introduced the ‘Collection Privée, Cartier Paris’ series. This was a collection of limited edition and limited produced watches, housed in Cartier’s classic cases like the Santos, Tank, Tortue, but more important, powered with high end mechanical calibers made by famous watch brands, for Cartier. Brands like Piaget Jaeger le_coultre, Frederique Piguet, Gerald Genta developed calibers for Cartier and they assembled these calibers n their Cartier watch cases. To come back at these watch snobs, the CCCP watches did not become really successful. At the same time in the late nineties it became really fashionable to acquire an in house movement. Although the Cartier watches were utterly beautuiful, with a for that time really new glass caseback, they did not have an in house movement. Also some of the detailing and engraving did not get the approval of everyone’s taste. Anyways if you should pick one of the CCP watches you should have a look at the Cartier Collection Priveé Paris Monopoussoir Tortue Monopoussoir that was produced by THA Èbauche. Founded in 1996, THA was a collaborative movement manufacture by Vianney Halter, Denis Flageollet (founder of De Bethune), and François-Paul Journe, before their respective brands became household names. The design of this watch goed back to the firt cartier mono poussoir from 1928 For more information on the ‘Collection Privée, Cartier Paris’ series, read this article https://www.revolution.watch/privee-pleasures/?archive

7-Jaeger-LeCoultre AMVOX 1

In the 1920s Jaeger made instruments for the dshboards of cars. thanks to World War I, LeCoultre & Cie in cooperation with Edmond Jaeger began manufacturing counters and dashboard instruments for the most prestigious automobiles of the time – including the renowned 1.5-liter Aston Martin LM, which was a regular winner in international motor racing of the 1930s and whose instruments were simply signed “Jaeger.” In 2003 Jaeger-LeCoultre and Aston Martin renewed Amvox first edition limited titanium. The name AMVOX was a mash-up of AM” of Aston Martin with the “Vox” of Memovox. While the looks of the later AMVOX are more contemporary/futuristic, futuristic, the first model displayed a great deal of tradition by anyone’s standards. Its case, though larger than Jaeger-LeCoultre’s usual fare at the time at 42 mm, as well as its functions, were based on the classic Memovox model from 1965.

8-Jaeger-LeCoultre AMVOX 2

Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced the Amvox2 Chronograph Concept 20004 with vertical trigger mechanism for the chronograph. AMVOX2 Chronograph Concept is a clear demonstration of the Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre at its very best, able to combine high-tech engineering with the finest watchmaking expertise. The vertical-trigger chronograph system replaced the ‘traditional’ push-pieces so characteristic of chronographs. IThe AMVOX 2 has an amazing mechanism that makes it possible to start, stop and reset the timer device simply by pressing on the watch’s crystal sapphire surface. An absolute first in the world of fine watchmaking. For more information on the Jaeger le_coultre Amvox read this article https://quillandpad.com/2017/01/13/complete-overview-jaeger-lecoultre-amvox-line/

9-IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar

In 1985 IWC introduced the Da Vinci reference 3750 at the Basel Fair. It was a watch with a perpetual calendar and chronograph complication priced at less than 50% of the next competitor. You could adjust the calendar functions with the crown instead of the more common pushers on the side of the case. The watch needed only small adjustments until the year 2499. Kurt Klaus invented the movement under the management of Günter Blümlein , which was a modulair kind of designed movement based on Valjoux caliber 7750. This watch was ground breaking due to its beauty, usability, and high quality value for money. And as a result it was an immediate success. And in 1986, IWC introduced the Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar (reference 3755), the world’s first wristwatch made of scratch-resistant black zirconium oxide ceramic (and later a white version also existed, as well as a kind of unicorn in lime green..)

10-Vacheron 222/Overseas

The Vacheron 222 Jumbo is considered among collectors to be on par with the masterpieces of Gérald Genta, The Audemar Piquet Royal Oak and the Patek Philippe nautilus. It was designed by Georg Hysek though. But the design is a real masterpiece. Rumor says that next year VC will come with a commemorative piece to celebrate the iconic watch that they introduced in 1977. So don’t wait, the prices on thesepieces will continue to rise. The Vacheron 222 was released in 1977 to celebrate the 222th anniversary of the Manufacure. Designwise the watch looks really a lot like the APRO and Nautlius due to the balanced case design with an integrated bracelet. It looks really clean and has a great 70s vibe. For the distinctive design Vacheron Constantin leaned on a young maverick designer in their stable by the name of Jorg Hysek. However, for many years Hysek's contribution was obscured in favor of Gérld Genta--even by Vacheron Constantin executives themselves. Just until a couple of years ago a article appeared on the Vintage Lounge which contributed the design to the actual designer, Georg Hysek. The VC 22 came in 3 different kind of case materials (stainless steel, yellow gold, and two-tone) and a medium and jumbo size 34/37mm. The 37mm stainless steel is the most sought version. The ‘222’ was limited to 500 pieces in stainless steel, 100 in gold and 120 in gold/steel combination. The model was produced for just seven years and made in 500 timepieces in all metal and dial combinations. (this is rumor from sources at VC). If you compare it with the A-series APRO, of which only 2000 pieces were produced, followed by the B, C etc series, and the Nautilus 3700-01A (steel with large bracelet): about 3500 pieces, the VC “222” is really rare. Price of the stainless steel JUMBO babies hit 40k at this moment, still under the level of A-seris APRO and early Nautilus.Omega Seamaster 300M Chrono Diver Rose Gold/Titanium

11-A. Lange & Söhne 1

On the 24th October of 1994 the grandson of the founding fathers Walter Lange resurrected the once famous German band with the launch of the Lange 1. The brand disappeared after WW2, since it was based in Glashütte in the East Germany which was under control of the Soviets . In 1994 they reintroduced the brand with the Lange 1 and three other watches. So what is the Lange 1? Th brand Lange & Söhne, described by many as the German Patek Philippe. It's made incredibly recognizable by it's slightly asymmetrical dial featuring every facet of the watch's function displayed on its own separate sub-dial, save, of course, the now signature "big date" display. Sure, Lange didn't invent the "big date" (or did they? I'm honestly not sure.), but they did, in their own way, make it an icon. While the vast majority of watches came with central hands and a small date window, the Lange 1 featured an off-centre hour/minute dial, a small second sub dial, a large date (outsize date as Lange named it) and a large power reserve indicator. However, as strange this layout could seem at first, all indications were positioned according to the harmonious proportions of the golden section, creating in the end an extremely balanced dial.

12-Bvlgary Octo Finissimo

The Bvlgary Octo Finissimo was introduced in 2014. Many among myself think that the Octo was been deisgned by Gerald Genta. It was actually designed in their Roman design department in 2004. Commercialized under the Gerald Genta name with the Bi-retrograde and Quadri-retro, the model is naturally coherent with the designer’s works. But if Genta created octagonal watches in the 1970s, these are indeed different and at the time the Octo was launched, he was no longer involved with the brand. He had sold its name to The Hour Glass in 1996. In 2000 Bulgari acquired the Gerald Genta name/brand and also the name/brand from a well-known watchmaker, Daniel Roth. Genta founded a new brand, named Gerald Charles in 2001. The Octo Finissimo is the second reboot of the octagonal styling, stripped of complications and excess weight, proving the Octo case can take on a whole new life with a bit of weight loss. Proof that less is more, the Octo Finissimo is deliciously thin and wonderfully elegant. Traditionalists will say it’s heresy, but the Octo Finissimo feels like a watch in the vein of the original Royal Oak and Nautilus – wide, flat and refined. The design is soo good that it would not suprize me that this watch will stand the test of time and will become a true horological icon.

13-Omega Speedmaster Legend

Michael Schumacher was ambassador for Omega for a long time before hopping over to Audemars Piguet. However, when he won the world title in F1 racing for the 6th time (2003), Omega decided to introduce a Speedmaster broad arrow model to commemorate this accomplishment by the German F1 pilot. The Speedmaster Legend was born and limited to 6000 pieces only. The Legend collection was available with three different dials (red, black and white). The white dial version of the Omega Speedmaster Legend, is the most popular one due to its color scheme. As you can see, the dial colors and layout reminds us of those old Rolex “Paul Newman” Daytonas (ref.6262) with its exotic dial. But there is also another even more limited Omega Speedmaster Michael Schumacher Special Edition of only 500 pieces. At first sight, you won’t immediately see it. But upon closer inspection it is definitely different. Instead of the ‘automatic chronometer’ indication, you’ll find the signature of Michael Schumacher on the dial and his name. Speedmaster was printed in red in the other ‘Panda’ Omega Speedmaster Michael Schumacher Legend watch, while it is in black here. Read more about it on: https://www.fratellowatches.com/omega-speedmaster-michael-schumacher/

14-Omega Speedmaster TinTin 

The Omega Speedmaster TinTin Ref 311. is a rare watch. This watch was designed to look like the spaceship of Herge’s comic called Tintin. After negotiations between the Omega employees with Tintin’s publisher Herge flamed out, Omega was left with dials that already had this red-and-white motif printed on them. Even the pragmatists, they renamed them “racing dials” and released them to market to 2013. Just like the Paul Newman Daytonas, the watches were initially not successful and after a relatively short period, were discontinued. This watch has big potential to become an icon since the design of the dial is really recognizable, it is atrue Speedmaster Professional, with the right Moonwatch specifications such as the 1861 caliber, the name is very cool and although it wasn’t limited, due to the lack of success it is only produced in small numbers (estimations of 1000-2000 pieces). Just read these articles if you would like to know more about the Omega Speedmaster Tintin https://www.revolution.watch/could-the-omega-speedmaster-tintin-ref-311-30-42-30-01-004-be-the-next-paul-newman-daytona/ and https://www.fratellowatches.com/speedy-tuesday-speedmaster-tintin/

15-Omega Speedmaster "Dark Side Of The Moon

There are others that were first with ceramic cases. The only difference is the execution. Omega build the Dark Side of the Mon from a single block of black ceramic, the iconic 44.25 mm Speedmaster case is completed by a brushed ceramic bezel with matt chromium nitride tachymeter scale. The dial and the pushers are also created from ceramic, what improves the robustness of this watch and what we haven’t seen earlier. Driven by OMEGA's Co-Axial Calibre 9300, this bold timepiece is finished with a black nylon strap that includes a new ceramic and titanium foldover clasp. The hands are diamond-polished 18K white gold, except for the central seconds hand which is polished, rhodium plated with a red tip. Even though this watch isn’t limited or hard to get, it is rather expensive and I guess it is not that successful. But this watch is an important watch for Omega and it looks stunning in the ceramic.

16-Patek Philippe Aquanaut

The Patek Philippe Aquanat was introduced in 1997 to appeal to a younger kind of crowd with it’s rubber strap and contemporary appeal. It remained under the shadow of it’s bigger brother the Patek Philippe Nautilus, one of the masterpieces deigned by Gerald Genta. The Aquanaut took inspiration in the Nautilus, but with a 3 part case and a more simple construction, as with rubber strap and not an integrated steel bracelet. The Aquananut has developed into more variations, bigger and in different kind of precious metals. But the first one will become an true icon on it’s own, just like the A-series Royal Oak and the first series of the Nautilus although not so pricey. Be quick, because prices are getting higher due to the Nautilus "Tulip Mania".

17-Zenith El Primero 1998 Rainbow Fly-Back 

The Zenith El Primero Rainbow reference 02.0480.405/24 is a reference to the namesake sailing ship that took part in the 15th America’s Cup in 1934 in Newport. The back of the case is decorated with the engrave profile of this ship. Originally built in 1997, the El Primero "Rainbow" was made to specs set forth by the French Air Force. They had requested a chronograph capable of withstanding forces of up to nine to eleven G's, wide variations in pressure and temperature, and a dial that was extremely easy to read. The design looked soo cool that Zenith introduced a re-edition in 2014

18-Omega de Ville Co-Axial limited edition 1999

The Omega de Ville limited series of 1999 is the first serial produced watch that has a co-axial movement. It was introduced in 1999 as a limited series in red gold with a dark blue dial, yellow gold with a silvered dial gold and platinum also with a silvered dial. Although I don’t like all the writing on the dial, this watch has been really important for the company Omega. It was the first watch that used the co-axial escapement of George Daniels. An invention that improves the accuracy of the watch significantly. George Daniels went to other companies like Patek Philippe and Rolex to show prototypes of this movement in their own watches, but all showd no interest. ~Until the late Nicolas Hayek from Omega close a deal. Although the horological industry was first introduced to the concept in 1976, Daniels' escapement was met with scepticism and lack of interest. It was not until the 1980s that Swatch Group chairman Nicolas Hayek adopted the concept, using it in his upmarket Omega brand. Since the late nineties he co-axial movement has been a cornerstone of the watch design of Omega.


19-Vacheron Constantin Overseas

The vacheron Constantin Overseas was designed in 1996. It got inspired by the Vacheron 222, that was released in 1977 to celebrate the 222th Anniversary. Like the 222, the Overseas was built around a tonneau shaped case with a fluted bezel reminiscent of the Maltese cross. Its dynamic lines were extended by an integrated bracelet with geometric links. The first overseas was 37mm, water resistant to 150m and powered by the VC1310, a COSC certified version of the ultra-flat automatic Girard-Perregaux 3100.

20-Ikepod Hemipode

This is a very special watch designed in 1998 by the very successful industrial designer and watch lover Marc Newson. It won the Red Dot Design Award in  2000. The lay-out of the watch design is very well thought. The colours look great as well as the organic case design. Marc Newson also designed the Apple watch with his old friend John Ivey.


21-IWC Portugieser 125th Anniversary series

In 1993 the International Watch Company released the IWC 125th Anniversary series. The Portuguese ref. 5441 had a case diameter of 42 mm and a thickness of 9 mm, silver dial, applied platinum Arabic numerals and dots indexes and typical feuille hands. It was produced in 1750 pieces: 1000 in stainless steel, 500 in rose gold, 250 in platinum. 
The Portugieser was a watch once designed at the end of the 1930s when two Portuguese businessmen - Rodrigues and Teixeira - operating in the watch industry visited the IWC (then International Watch Company) headquarter in Schaffausen proposing the development of a large stainless steel wristwatch housing a movement that could match the precision of a marine chronometer. 
According to Kurt Klaus - the legendary IWC watchmaker nicknamed the Einstein from Schaffhausen for the invention of some of the most exciting complications of the swiss manufacturer - during the visit of a customer to the atelier they noted that he was wearing an original Portuguese wristwatch reference 325. He recounts that, as they gathered around him, they declared, "this is such a uniquely beautiful watch; we should make it again". 
Plans were quickly made to revive the Portuguese, developing an entire line around this model from the past. The 125th anniversary of the Schaffhausen-based company, occurring in 1993, was the perfect occasion to introduce the new Portuguese in a celebratory limited edition often referred to as the Jubilee.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         

22-Cartier Pasha 1985

Throughout its history, the house of Cartier has always been a favorite among the world’s royalty. In the 1930s, the Thami El Glaoui, the Pasha of Marrakech commissioned Cartier to create a timepiece that could keep up with his active lifestyle. Of course, Louis Cartier obliged. He presented the Pasha with a watch that was not only water resistant enough for daily swims but also elegant enough for royal duties. That particular timepiece for the Pasha led to a circular Cartier watch that officially joined the Maison‘s collection in 1943. And that pair of luxury Cartier watches later inspired the modern Pasha de Cartier line in 1985 designed by Gérald Genta. Prior to the Pasha, Gerald Genta had already produced numerous iconic luxury sports watches. He was the man behind the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, the Patek Philippe Nautilus, and the IWC Ingenieur. So it’s understandable that the brand entrusted Gerald Genta with the task of shaping what would be Cartier’s modern luxury sports watch. Gerald Genta’s newly designed Cartier Pasha watch was distinct from the other watches in the brand’s collection for many reasons. First, it sported a round case rather than the square, rectangular, and oval shaped ones that Cartier was famous for. Naturally, continuing the legacy of the original Pasha’s watch, the case was waterproof—up to 100m. Furthermore, the dial of the new Pasha de Cartier had Arabic numerals instead of the typical Cartier Roman numerals with sword hands. Gerald Genta also included the famous Louis Cartier-designed Vendome lugs and oversized crown with a blue sapphire. A small cap attached to the case via a small chain protected the crown from water influence. As expected, the Cartier and Gerald Genta collaboration was a hit. The Pasha soon welcomed an abundance of new versions, materials, and complications, to become one of Cartier’s most varied and beloved collections. The Pasha models that will become collectible are the rare precious metal ones like the platinum and the rose gold, further it is important to pick the earliest models a possible.

23-Panerai la Bomba Luminor Submersible Titan

Called by collectors "La Bomba"; it's one of only 500 made. Also known as the "Tuna Can" for its chunky profile, the famed Panerai Luminor Submersible 1000M PAM 64 was *the* star of Panerai's Y2K Special Edition lineup. As the first 1000M product from the post-Vendome house of Panerai, the PAM 64 became a cult watch within a cult brand. Devotees of this model grab and hold available examples like a Green Boa that's caught a monkey. And it's easy to see why; this is one serious Sub. The enormous 1000M case doesn't occupy any more wrist real estate than a standard 44mm Panerai Luminor, but it’s incredible safe-like construction sits higher and stouter than a standard Luminor. It feels like an Abrams tank, and it's got the hardware to justify the comparison. A domed sapphire crystal 5.1mm thick is the star of the show and the key to the nickname ("La Bomba" can mean, among many other translations, "the bubble"). Even a Rolex Deepsea Sea-Dweller makes do with a 5mm sapphire. The super Sub's curved unidirectional dive bezel recalls the unit fitted to the famed 1950s Panerai 6152 "Egiziano," but the PAM 64 spares its user that old-timer's 60mm girth. A helium release valve at nine o'clock completes the fortress-like build of the PAM 64. On the 1000M dial, a gorgeous tritium patina has formed on the indexes, numerals, and hands of this PAM 64. While most Panerai watches transitioned from tritium lume to lumina during the 1998 model year, Submersibles (including the 2000 PAM 64) continued to use tritium until the mid-2000s. The Bomba ages well and discolores in a gloriously uniform fashion. While "dirty dial" simulated aged lume is all the rage today, this Luminor Submersible 1000M boasts the real thing. In 2004 Panerai done another Bomba, with a blue dial the Panerai refrence PAM087 PAM 87


24-Universal Genve Aero-Compax 24H

Universal Genve Aero-Compax 24H. Aero-compax Chronograph 24h contains the codes of the original model of the 50s. The dial 24 enables quick and easy reading of the time. This one is a limited re-edition made by Universal Geneve in the 1990s of their iconic Aero-Compax line. The aero-compax was a special watch: it was a true, 24-hour chronograph made for pilots. Made in the 1960s, UG wrote that “The 24 Hour Compax, created in 1969 by Universal Geneve was an instant success with pilots thanks to its unique system that allowed users to read time in a second time zone based on the distance travelled.”From the Universal Geneve catalog: “The latest version of the 24 Hour Compax presented at Basel 1998 is a replica of the original 1969 version with its unidirectional turning bezel graduated 1 to 24 hours. The timepiece reflects the spirit of the original watch and possesses the same sober design and unique characteristics. The current version has been enhanced using the technology of our times.Other than the usual chronograph functions, the 24 Hour Compax has the originality of a 24 hour dial hence its name. Time is read not on a twelve hour dial but on a 24 hour dial which implies an added complication to the movement. Furthermore the unidirectional bezel is engraved with a 24-hour clock i.e. from one to twenty-four. This special bezel indicates the time in the second time zone.The 24 Hour Compax is available with a hand-winding UG 82 movement, stainless steel case, ivory or black dial with Arabic numbers, sapphire crystal, crocodile leather strap and a fold-over buckle.”


25-Tag Heuer Super Professional 1000m (in the nineties called Specialist 1000m)

This is a very rare and hard to find watch. The watch has a depth rating of over 3000 feet!  It has a relly iunique bezel. he Super Pro was one of the last proper ‘tool’ watches designed by Heuer before TAG acquired them in the mid 80’s. Some Heuer only signed models were produced, but they are far and few between. The watch has an ETA 2892 (late nineties ETA2824) movement . For more information on this watch read https://www.calibre11.com/tag-heuer-super-professional/


The true legends of modern watchmaking are the Independents. These are the guys that break the rules and challenge the established order. In the 1990s you had Alain Silberstein that made some really different designs. He was on of the first independent watch creators with a non traditional case esign. In the late nineties Vianney Halter introduced the first true independent watch. Both the design as well as the movement were truly unique. Nowadays there are a lot of independent watchmakers, but the following watches are the most influential examples of early “independent creative horology” (ICH).

26-Alain Silberstein Krono Bauhaus

Alain Silberstein is one of the most interesting watch designers on the planet. His Bauhaus-inspired watches are all made in France and embrace his colorful vision of horology. The Krono Bauhaus 2 is peak Silberstein with primary colors and geometric shapes echoing from hands across the face to the buttons on the side of the case. His avant garde style is certain to make a statement on any wrist. Rencetly Max Büsser asked Alain Silberstein to design a Legacy Machine for MB&F.

27-MB&F Legacy Machine No. 1

In 2011 Max Büsser introduced the first watch in MB&F’s new product family – this is the Legacy Machine 1 (LM1). It was different kind of watch family. Their traditional horological machines, these are watches that were inspired things of his own childhood, think about racecars, animals and spaceships. The legacy watches have the same kind of concept only if Max Busser was born and raised 100 years earlier, in the late 19th century. For the legacy machines Max Busser asked Jean-François Mojon and his team at Chronode to make the design of the watch movement. For the movement he asked Kari Voutilainen to build it and finish it. The Legacy Watch number 1 is a future icon due to the combination of classic elements like a round case and a superlatively finished movement with MB&F’s trademark over-the-top horological creativity (or at least an over-the-top balance wheel). The first Legacy Machine won the public price at the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix) is the name of an annual watchmaking prize as well as the organization that awards it.

28-Vianney Halter Antiqua

Vianney Halter’s very first model and his first model of his Future Antérieur collection, was introduced twenty years ago at the Basel Fair of 1998. Jeffrey Barnes wanted to design a completely different kind of watch the all the other manufacturerd where making at that time. He contacted Vianney Halter to develop his design. For the movement they used the Lemania caliber 8810 and perhaps 60 or 70% of the parts had to be changed into new parts. Which is this watch so special? Where other manufacturers were busy with complications, Jeffery Barnes and Vianney Halter explored the boundries for the physical form and the display of a perpetual calendar with th ground breaking design of the HB Antiqua Perpetual Calendar. This watch inspired brands such as Richard Mille, Max Busser, De Bethune to develop haute horlogerie watches without the classic design, but with a more contemporary out of the box approach. This watch is iconic since it broke the rules.

29-Roger Dubuis sympathy

Mr Dubuis began his watchmaking career during the golden age of Swiss watchmaking, starting at Longines in the late 1950s. Most of the nine years Mr Dubuis spent at the Saint-Imier watchmaker renowned for its chronographs were in its after-sales department where he worked on repairs. He then moved to Geneva to work for Patek Philippe as a constructor and watchmaker in the high complications workshop. After 14 years at the pedigreed Geneva watchmaker, he left in 1980 to set up a small workshop where he repaired watches and clocks for collectors, auction houses and watch brands. According to Mr Dubuis, in the late 1980s he starting working on his first complication, a perpetual calendar module with retrograde displays. At the beginning, Roger Dubuis watches came in two styles: Sympathie and Hommage. The Sympathie case was shaped like a cushion with sharpened corners. The design of the Sympathie case was remarkably different and later became the signature shape of the brand. More information red this artic le http://watchesbysjx.com/2017/10/the-story-of-roger-dubuis-1938-2017.html

30-F.P. Journe early brass movement Chronometre a Resonance

This is one of the early watches that F.P Journe designed. It is made from a brass movement. The early brass movements are only made in small numbers, estimations go to 2000 pieces in total. Later movements are made from 18 carat gold base plates. Only the early F.P Journe watches produced from 2001 till 2004 have these brass main plates. These kind of limited numbers in combination with the great appeal of the F.P Journe watches really attract collectors worldwide.
The Chronomètre à Résonance movement is comprised of two balance wheels, inspired by a natural phenomenon called resonance. The complication is explained by François-Paul thusly, “In a watch, never mind which, there is energy which dissipates. When you listen to a watch, the tic-tac of the balance is dissipating energy. In a resonance chronometer, there are two balance wheels which are placed sufficiently close to one another, and the dissipated energy of each is caught by the other, leading to a unique type of frequency regulation.”
Each of the two balances alternately serves as exciter and resonator. When the two balances are in movement, they enter into harmony thanks to the resonance phenomenon and begin to beat naturally in opposition. The two balances then support each other, giving more inertia to their movement. This result is possible only if the difference of the frequency from one to the other does not exceed 5 seconds per day cumulated on six positions. Their setting is an extremely delicate task.Whereas an external disturbing movement affects the running of a traditional mechanical watch, the same disturbance, for the Chronomètre à Resonance, produces an effect that accelerates one of the balances as much as it slows the other down. Little by little, the two balances come back towards each other to find their point of harmony, thus eliminating the disturbance. This mechanism revolutionizes established standards and offers an amount of precision that had never been equaled in a mechanical wristwatch.
The discovery is said to have been made in 1665, by Dutch mathematician Christiaan Hygens, who reported that two pendulum clocks, hanging from the same mounting beam, would beat in such perfect duplicity, that the sound of the escapements were indistinguishable from one another. Price are going up.

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